Chengdu Day 4

A bit of a come down with no planned Chinese Celebrations here in Chengdu. They do not do fire works as that causes pollution the Chinese are on a big drive to bring the pollution levels down around the country. The Chinese apparently celebrate at home with family and friends. The water supply to the apartment was cut off, they were hoping to get someone to fix it as it also affected other apartments too.

Up at 08:00 and we have water which is good news. Penny got up a little latter and we could hear drums being beaten so we quickly showered and went off to find the source of the drumming. It was the hotel next to us and they had just finished. Did not matter and we walked down to the Peoples Park just over a mile away and it was busy there, also walking there we saw alot of Chinese people walking with their friends and family. As we were walking through Tianfu Square people were all seating alongside the water fountains, I mentioned to Penny they will move when they start up the fountains and minutes later is happened people moved very quick.

Spent a couple of hours walking around the park which had a lake and people in row boats totally enjoying themselves. Penny and sat down on a bench and watched the world go by and we were amazed by the amount of people taking photos of us, so I aimed my camera at them and took their photos. One sectioned off area was a tea house outdoor seating was very populated. Came across a fun park with dodgems and fair rides. Most kids got more fun out of making bubbles and popping them. We made our way back to the apartment via Tianfu Square where we met 2 monks and a female monk, wished them happy NY and shook their hands. Came across work out apparatus close to the road, Penny had a 10 minute play on them. We come across a street side veg shop and got salad food for tonight. Back in the apartment made up BLT sandwich for me and Penny boiled 3 eggs for us, the eggs are a nice orange colour yokes not like the pale ones you get in Europe.

We are going to head down to Tianfu Square tonight and see how it is with the coloured lights.

Day 3 Chengdu Panda Time.

The bacon poached eggs and baked beans tasted bloody good last night, unfortunately the loaf of bread I bought was sweet and in the middle had a soft sweet buttery cream, does not go well with bacon and eggs.

Got up at 06:00 left the apartment at 07:00 and took a taxi to the Panda Breeding Center it was still dark and not much traffic on the road. We arrived at the Panda Center at 07:30 as they opened up to the public great timing. Just starting to become light we followed the small crowd to the Giant Panda area’s. Then we spotted our first live panda and the camera was taking video’s and photo’s. I have had people say make sure you get enough photo’s of the Panda’s, that you have. They had a section for the yearling Pandas, male and female area’s, plus two area’s for the red Pandas much smaller the the black and white panda’s. It was very interesting and the staff there were giving out fresh bamboo and shoots to all the panda’s. We watched a video and it showed farmers near the mountains 100 km from Chengdu look for the bamboo cut it, stack it tie it and then carry 60 pounds each of bamboo to their backs and climb down the mountain, if it was not for these guys this operation would cease. Of their bamboo harvested only a 3rd is used the rest is discarded. The Pandas must be the Prima Donna’s of all the animals, all they do is eat 12 – 38 kg every day & sleep and receive very good care and attention. David Attenburgh narrated a video regarding the Pandas here at Chengdu very interesting, they started the breeding programme and now have over 300 panda’s. They decided to bred and when wean the young ones prepare them to be released back in the mountain areas where they live at present. Apparently this cause alot of debate but it went ahead. Countries which borrow Pandas from the center they are charged US$1 million for the privilege and if any babies are born they belong to the Chinese. In the past The Chinese leaders gave panda’s to Presidents, Prime Ministers etc from various countries as gifts, then this come to a stop when they realised they were running out of pandas. The Panda Breeding Center is 247 acres and 10 km from the center of town. We spent 5 hours there and before we departed Penny wanted a Panda T shirt, they do not do them, they lots of panda bear all sizes and lovely prices. Penny bought one from an outside vendor for £2.50.

We found the taxis to go back to the apartment but they wanted high prices as it is NY Eve, so we decided to get a bus to the Wide and Narrow Alley a tourist spot. 30 minutes later we arrived there and it was full of Chinese and very crowded and they don’t walk fast, it was interesting with lots of food places offering a variety of foods which we had some lunch and carried on. We spotted some guys cleaning peoples ears with a variety of tools and they had a surgical light on their head so they could see inside the ear canal. We found some ladies doing it as well further a head and it had what they were doing in English so Penny decided to have here ears done. Took some photos and she said it was very good and she felt great. At the end the lady had a tuning fork and she placed it against the instrument inside Penny’s ear apparently a lovely sensation.

From there we walked back to the hotel a 45 minute walk with the assistance of asking a few Chinese people where our place was. Penny was on the mark as she reckoned it was a turn here and there. Unfortunately today and tomorrow the Chinese only celebrate with family and friends and not in a park or center prior to it becoming midnight, which is a bit disappointing. Shangri-La would be the place to be tonight.

Day 2 in Chengdu.

It is great to be staying in a lovely apartment with a washing machine. Bed was great we both slept well and we needed it. No drafts coming into the apartment. Sat on the toilet this morning WOW it was heated a strange but warm feeling. The kitchen is catered for the Chinese 2 bowls 2 knife and forks a pot and frying pan. I spoke to reception and asked if many Europeans stay and they said not that many. I asked for 2 big and small plates spoons chopping board and knife and if possible a toaster. Got everything but the toaster.

Penny and I went out and explored our neighbour hood found a China Mobile Telecom store as we needed to top up her phone, told they could not do it we had to walk 400 meters to another shop, on the way we past about 20 mobile phone companies. The Chinese are so tech savvy. Got it topped up and we headed to the supermarket to buy some food we can relate too. I have lost 8 kg in weight so far need to put some weight on. We spent a good hour and came out with £90 of food, steaks, scallops in the shell, veg, eggs, bacon etc. So we are eating in doors tonight bacon, eggs and baked beans with bread and butter. It was 15C today felt warmer the first time I did not have to wear any thermals since we arrived in Russia 30.11.18 a lovely feeling but end of next week they will be back on according the the forecasts. We dropped the food off in the apartment and we went back to a place which did pedicures which Penny wanted. The guy soaked her feet then used chisel like scalpels to remove the dead or dried skin and trim the toe nails. I decided to have it done too as my feet have been dry and got a few cracks in the heels, once he finished they felt marvellous, they do massage as well, so Penny wants that done in the next day or too. We walked back to the apartment another load of washing completed hung it out and Penny hopped into bed and chilled. Dinner time now both looking forward to it. Off at 07:30 tomorrow to see the Panda Bears.

Flight Shangri-La to Chengdu.

Got up packed due to leave at midday and Penny wanted to visit the restaurant to have her favourite dish of dumplings with Yak butter tea. She was happy with them both but we really like Shangri-La a lot and a bit sad to leave it. Would be a great place for Chinese NY. The hostel arranged for a driver to take us to the airport. We checked our bags in and then went outside as Penny wanted to take some photos a really lovely day sunny and a little breeze. Went through security and waited for our 13:55 flight. The flight before going to Lhasa was cancelled due to the weather there. Our flight was coming from Lhasa, bugger. Then 2 China Eastern Airway flights arrived, one was carrying on to Chengdu, our flight was Tibet Airways. We were told to go back through security and change our flight tickets to China eastern Airways, there was a frantic scramble. Got them changed back through security and boarded the plane and there were still 10 seats available, we were lucky we could get on the flight. So we had a 4 hour wait at the airport becoming too familiar. We had a bit of turbulence leaving Shangri-La as we are surrounded by mountains a couple of Chinese people took their sick bags to the back of the plane. We were not sitting next to the window so no photo’s by Penny. The airline magazine was promoting NZ as a holiday destination a very good spread. As we got closer to Chengdu the mountains disappeared. 90 minutes later we landed it was overcast or may be smog hard to distinguish at times. It was the longest taxiing from when we stopped to our gate and I have flown alot of flights around the world. Then we had a long walk to baggage reclaim, got the bags and another long walk to the taxi rank, showed the driver the address we where staying at and he said okay he knew where he was going. It was a 22km journey eventually he stopped and said our place was up those stairs, I asked him to ring the phone number but he refused. It was not the place, I asked a young guy where it was and he rang the place we were 300 meters away down the road and around the corner. Useless bloody taxi driver and Penny tried to defend him, not good enough taxi driver. The front desk sent a guy down who found us and we followed him and checked in.

We decided to look around for something to eat went into one restaurant and could not see any pictures of food which we would like to eat, we checked out some more and eventually ate at a side road restaurant, we chose a variety of meat, veg and squid on skewers grilled on the hot plate and an aubergine cut in half seasoned like the rest. It was very spicy but tasty and we had a bowl each of cold rice which suited the spicy food. After that we got some fruit and tried to find a decent supermarket but no joy and we have an apartment with kitchen and washing machine, we love our salads which you do not see very often. Got back to the apartment put the food away unpacked our bags and put them out of sight. Completed the dark wash and got it hung up on the clothes horse see how dry it is in the morning. We will have a day get our bearings and check out the area we are staying in. Monday morning around 07:30 we are going out to see the Panda bears they eat early and in the afternoon usually go to sleep, it being winter time they might not be so sleepy.

Shangri-La Day 3.

Had a good meal last night pizza and salad and least we could relate to it. We found some young people preparing for Chinese NY doing various dance routines. Unfortunately Penny’s camera card was full up so not possible to take any photos or videos. I down loaded all her photos and videos down on my lap top.

At 10:00 our driver was there to take us to Napa Lake, also a Chinese couple were waiting to go. Then another European couple wanted to come along as well. His people carrier took as all. We headed towards the mountains passed farm land and then we spotted the lake. He stopped at 3 locations for us to take photos. The sun was shining and the sky so blue and the lake was blue as well. After looking at the variety of animals with no sign of grass to eat we carried on around the lake and eventually we had to stop as as the road disappeared into the lake. The locals know of this so he turned around and we got out to take more photos and appreciate the peaceful scenery. Then a car full of Chinese drove 100m into the lake and stopped and took photos, when we left they were still there. We made a final stop where there were numerous locations on both sides of the road where there were stones placed to a height over 2m. No one could explain to us what they were. We got dropped off in the middle of the old town and made our way up to the top of the temple where we have taken photos previously. Bit of a climb but worth it. The main temple could not take any photos. The gold plated Shambala was sitting there idyll then about 10 of us got hold of the rope handles and started moving it in a clockwise direction managed 3 rotations and needed a break it is one heavy beast. From there we went down into the new part of the city and there was a lake with a walk way around it. It was lovely and peaceful with the sun out as well. Penny bought a few mementos and then she went and had dumplings which she desired a few days ago, she was a very happy lady afterwards. Back to the hostel and arranged for the taxi to take us to the airport at midday tomorrow for our 14:00 flight if they are on time??

Shangri-La Day 2.

Had a good sleep warm in bed but bloody cold in the room I had shut off the air con heater as it was rattling away but the electric blanket was on low. Eventually had to get out of bed made Penny a cup of tea and had a shower which was very hot, certainly warmed me up. We decided to walk around the city it was a lovely sunny day a high of 9 C.

We ventured out of the old city and followed the main road. Alot of restaurants serving yak, goat sheep noodles etc. Some had pieces of Yak meat drying out above the entrance to their restaurants. In the shaded areas where we were walking there was a lot of black ice both skidded a few times. We came across a colourful market they were selling a lot of decoration for Chinese New Year which happens next week. Penny bought some memorabilia. I spoke to one of the stall owners and he spoke very good English, I asked him where the lake was and he said over the mountain can only get a taxi to go and see it, so hopefully we will do it tomorrow. Stopped at some supermarkets and bought some fruit, coffee and milk. Made our way back to the hostel stopped at a pharmacy got some tablets to dry up my head cold, which the 2 German girls shared on our bus trip to Everest. Got back and I got the heating on and had a 2 hour siesta whilst Penny ate a bag full of shelled peas. We are going out to eat soon Penny love the dumplings and a few restaurants do that.

Lhasa to Shangri-La by plane

Departed the hotel at 07:30 for the airport takes 1 hour to get there. It was very busy there. Our flight was due to depart at 11:10 then it come up delayed due 13:30 and then changed again at 14:45. The airport was busy and cold which the Tibetans love. They love queue jumping, one guy I yelled at, get in behind which he did. Got our bags checked in and got the flight tickets. Went through security had to take foot wear off, jackets and watches. Got sorted out and sat down and one of the young ladies on the tour who had shared the night with us in the bothy came and sat with us, we saw another 4 on the tour, everyone were different directions. Because of the 3.5 hour delay Air Tibet gave us a meal we were suprised Ryan Air and a like should take notice. We flew on an Air Bus A 380 given a hot bun and water. Leaving Lhasa the scenery was amazing mountain ranges, we were cruise at 33,000 feet and you could see mountain peaks below poking through the cloud. Penny had the window seat so got some good photos. The flight duration was 90 minutes and as we approached Shangri-La the surround mountains and hills had snow on them.

We got off the plane and made our way down to baggage collect and the bags just arrived the quickest I have got my bags. Found a taxi and made our way to the Hostel we are staying in. Apparently a couple from Brazil are arriving tonight so we are the only ones here. Got settled in wall heater on and I got the bath mat rolled it up and plugged the 2 inch gap under the door. We go out and discover the old part of the city here in Shangri-La where we are staying. What a quaint and unique place this is, the photos over the next couple of days will show this. We found a restaurant and had an okay meal feeling cold just want to warm up and have a good sleep tonight, have an electric blanket on the bed and this is the first night in 8 days that we have slept together as on the trip only had single beds. At Lhasa the altitude was 4600 m Everest BC was 5200 meters to do any basic chore was taxing on the body tying ones boots up had us panting, the most taxing was squatting and having a bowel motion. Here in Shangri-La we are at 3141 m and we feel things are back to normal.

Shigatse to Lhasa

Booked into our hotel last night and to have a shower was great. The heater in our room shit it self so got a replacement. These Tibetans are really hardy people they don’t mind the cold, hotel room are 12 C and in reception a little cooler than that they are well dressed for the cold. The passage ways are very dark they economies on electrics. We were told to be ready for 09:00 departure from the hotel. Three females decide to have their breakfast at 08:50 and we don’t get away until 09:15. I had spoken to our tour guide and I mentioned to him our itinerary did not mention going to a monastery just stated drive along the river gorge to Lhasa. We did not stop at the monastery. We followed the Yarlung Tsangpo River all the way to Lhasa it was impressive some parts were frozen and most of the time moving water, mountains either side of it. After a toilet break Tibetan style our guide said the next stop is at the home of a farmer, everyone was happy to hear that.

We arrived there an hour later and we were welcomed into his 2 storey house he had 5 cows tied outside his house right by the main road. First big room we entered was a social room, the neighbours socialise alot as there are no pubs or wine bars. It also doubled up as the cooking area a large hot plate with a flu leading out to the side of the house. Upstairs we were shown another room which was their Buddhist Chapel well decorated and used every day. From there we went into a big lounge area we were served yak butter tea and a variety of Tibetan finger foods, which we did not expect. Then he bought out his home brew of Barley beer which Penny quite enjoyed. When they entertain their neighbours and friend with Barley Beer they sing. The farmer has had his tractor for only 10 years certainly revolutionised farming. I thanked the farmer very much and we departed.

An hour later we arrived back to the hustle and bustle of Lhasa. Before we checked in Penny and I gave the tour guide our arctic jackets and selopettes which he was very appreciative. Tomorrow we fly to Diqing going to stay in Shangri La for 3 nights and the day temperatures are around 15 C and from there only getting warmer. Got into our room only 12 C bloody cold I went down to reception and asked for a heater and they said air con come on at 19:00 I said that is too long to wait. Penny was in her bed with all her clothes on. I went for a massage at the Blind Massage Center and when I got back no heater. Penny got up and went out and she told reception we need a heater it is cold I have had to be in bed to keep warm, so if you can not give us a heater I want a room change. Ten minutes later we have a heater sure makes a difference and after 90 minutes we have 13 C both of us huddled around the heater. We have a 11:10 flight so the bus is picking us up at 07:30 as others have early flights to catch.

You see alot of swastikas around here in Lhasa. Spiritual Beginning for the Swastika. For the Hindus and Buddhists in India and other Asian countries, the swastika was an important symbol for many thousands of years and, to this day, the symbol can still be seen in abundance – on temples, buses, taxis, and on the cover of books. It was also used in Ancient Greece and Rome, and can be found in the remains of the ancient city of Troy, which existed 4,000 years ago. The ancient Druids and the Celts also used the symbol, reflected in many artifacts that have been discovered. It was used by Nordic tribes, and even early Christians used the Swastika as one of their symbols, including the Teutonic Knights, a German medieval military order, which became a purely religious Catholic Order. But why is this symbol so important and why did Adolf Hitler decide to use it?

Mt Everest Base Camp to Shigatse.

After the mornings departure time issue we managed to get some more photos of the magnificent Everest. I got into my seat my feet still feeling the cold, possum hat on and my jacket hood. I slept as the made our way back up the first pass hoping to see Everest clear but unfortunately it had cloud cover. I took another video as there was not much winds as we experienced yesterday. I did not take many photos as I took most of them to Everest yesterday and I slept quite alot. The bottles of water left in the bus over night had all frozen.

The issues travelling in a party are coming out now we have 12 in our party and 3 of us are males, we are not the issue, some of the females are precious. One girl from the US wanted to stop the bus at a village and stay there instead of Base Camp as she was not feeling well. She sucked alot of oxygen and later found out it was probably car sick as the roads were windy, she had no tablets of wrist bands to counteract this condition. She always wanted toilet stops and today refuse on in a small town as it was pretty grim and she wanted lunch fair enough. The restaurant did not have a toilet so she had to go back to the public toilet. The toilets in Tibet are not up to standard for tourists and needs to be addressed. We were asked by the tour guide if we wanted to visit another monastery, we told him we were monastery out and he said another option was visiting a Tibetan farm family house. 11 voted to go to the family but because the itinerary had the monastery to visit this one person got their way to everyone’s annoyance. There is alot of improvement which this tour company can do to accommodate us tourists. We are departing at 09:00 and expect to be back in Lhasa when it is dark. We fly out the next day to Shangri La at 11:10 they bus out to the airport at 08:00 and hours drive. This should be the cold weather behind us now.

Shigatse to Mt Everest Base Camp by bus.

The hotel we stayed at Shigatse did not have any hot water and they were not concerned about it either, the rooms were cool as ever. Everyone on the tour was pissed off we could not shower. So the tour company will put us in another one when we come back. The bus took 9.5 hours to get to Base Camp with stops on the way for photos and toilet stops mainly for the females onboard. Three passport check points, the last police check point they had a basket ball court would have to be the highest in the world.

When we entered in to Mt Qomolahsma National Reserve the land was barren with farmers and their stock, I am sure when it is warmer they will grow crops too, Barley is the main one they grow. Some areas it is like a dust bowl as the strong Himalayan winds appear. The road is now 3/4 lane each way and going over the mountain passes and down see some spectacular scenery. We completed 2 mountain passes 4600 m and 5448 m to reach our bothy type accommodation at Base Camp. When we reached the 2nd mountain pass we could see alot of the majestic Mt Everest. Unfortunately it was blowing 100 mph winds tried to take 2 videos but the strong winds did not allow for smooth recording. The temperature was -17 C and with the wind chill factor it was -38 C. Got to the bothy at Base Camp luxurious no way, there were 4 of us in one room the window joinery allowed wind to whistle through making the curtains billow out. There were blankets and an electric blanket for each bed all the wiring in the room looked dodgy. We all went out side and looked at Everest and took photos it was a pity about the clouds and the strong winds, but we waited an hour hoping to get some clear shots.The blanket gave a little heat, we all crawled into our beds about 20:00 hours feeling bloody cold except Penny. My thermometer was showing -5 C in the room and my bed was next to the leaky window. We had to take our own food as there were no restaurants I was so cold I just at a Snickers Bar, they provided a large flask of hot water. We were given 4 oxygen bottles with masks, Penny had to try her one out, the other two woman sucked on the bottle during the night. I have had no issues with being at altitude.The toilets were outside and 4 cubicles or dividers no privacy the one at the far right was the main one used as the shit was stacked the highest. No was happy to use it, during the night it was -26 C 50 mph winds wind chill factor it was -47 C. The coldest part of my body was my feet. I went to the toilet at midnight and the stars were out no light pollution and they all looked magnified. The big dipper just appeared like I have never seen before, will never forget it.

Penny slept the best in our room I must have got about 4 hours of sleep. The other 2 were cold and talked alot which was a bit inconsiderate, got to hear about past relationships and sex. No one could have sex with the cold we were experiencing. We were told to be up and ready at 07:00 to go but no one had passed on to us that some of them wanted to stay until 09:30 when it was sunrise, which pissed us off. I went out a few times to look at Everest but it was cloudy at times and very windy. The temperature in the room was -7 C and the water bottles had all frozen. There was no WiFi working they needed a heater in each room and all the drafts fixed, this was the coldest I have ever experienced sleeping at night and the same for the other 2 woman. At 09:00 the mountain was showing signs we might get a clear picture as the clouds were moving fast, but unfortunately it did not happen.