11 hour bus ride from Lhasa to Shigatse

Had breakfast at 07:30 and checked out, left one bag behind we will spend a night there before we fly out the next day. Departed with our party just after 08:30 it was just starting to become light. The main road to Shigatse is just 2 lanes. After 2 hours we pulled over and took some photos of a river and the surrounding mountains, in the 15 minutes there I spotted 3 big passengers planes make their approaches to Lhasa airport. Then we started climbing up the first mountain pass, some of the vehicles were just crawling and our driver passed alot of them on the way. Once we got to the top of the mountain pass we pulled over and took some more photos of the amazing scenery. There were locals with their Tibetan Mastiffs, Penny posed between 2 of these magnificent animals and cost just over a pound to do so. From there we made our way to Yamdrok Lake which is suppose to be sacred, it is shaped like a scorpion and 72 km long. Took some more photos and drove on to Karola Glacier , it was quite spectacular not far from the roadside. From there we moved onto the next town and had lunch, a set menu was put on all the tables as there is 60 odd people on 4 buses. Just under £4 a head and it was quite good. We drove on to Gyantse and we went to the Tashilhunpo Monastery spent an hour looking outside and inside. The Buddha’s are the same ones we saw in Lhasa, there were pilgrims there but not as many we experienced in Lhasa. We left there at 17:45 and made our way to Shigatse which we arrived at 19:30. I think everyone was glad the trip was over for the day, there is about 6 people not feeling the best, I hope they improve for tomorrow.

We depart here at 07:30 and make our way up to Mt Everest Base Camp, Penny and I are so looking forward to seeing this magnificent mountain.

Lhasa Day 2 Potala Palace and Jokhang Temple

Picked up at 09:30 and headed of too Potala Palace an imposing building started in the 7th century and completed in the 17th century. Disappointing as it was cloudy but the sun still breaking through. When we arrived at the foot of the palace the pilgrims were streaming their way to the top. There was 700 steps to climb at the palace and we took a breather periodically along the way. I spotted one person on their hands and knees being sick. There were alot of elderly people hunched over with their walking sticks and making good pace. People were coming up to me and wanting a photo with me being so tall compared to them and a grey beard, I had countless photos taken with monks, fathers, mothers and children all so appreciative. We could take photos but once inside the palace no more photos. Our guide is so informative regarding the Buddhist religion and all the statues of all the Buddha’s. The walls of the palace was 3 meters thick. There were monks chanting and the pilgrims gave money offerings and said their prays at each statue of a Buddha. It was easy to walk down and the views over the city were spectacular. Made our way to the bus and we went for lunch which was quite nice but like most buildings inside and our hotel it was 14 C.

After lunch we walked a short distance to Jokhang Temple which is smaller than Sera Temple we could take some photos inside the lower level but not the top level. The pilgrims were lined up and shuffling along to make money offerings and saying prayers. Outside the people were praying which is captured in the video. Once the pilgrims had been inside the Temple they then proceeded to walk around it going right handed, there were thousands of them. Over the past 2 days I have learned so much about Buddhism and the history. Then I walked back to the hotel down alot of hand washing and packing our gear into one bag for our road trip to Mt Everest Base Camp with tomorrow night and the night after staying at Shigatse. At Base Camp we are staying in a Monastery and we have to take our own food to eat so pots noodles it will be. We depart at 08:00 tomorrow and it is 12 hours on the road to Shigatse.

Lhasa Drepung and Sera Monasteries

We slept in a cold room last night 15C the heater was not working and the air con was blowing a mixture of warm and cold air. Slept with my clothes on and woolen hat. The beds are hard mattresses but slept okay we were both tired. Had some boiled eggs for breakfast and we joined our tour party at 09:30 and we hopped on our mini bus and headed to Drepung Monastery which is the biggest in Lhasa and dated back to the 14th century.. We could take photos of the outside area of the monasteries but not allowed inside. Our guide was very informative and the tour was conducted at a slow pace due to the altitude. There were a lot of steps and I was there to help Penny up and down them. There were a lot of Buddhist mainly farmers and their families come to do their pilgrimage and there were 3 mini buses of tourists and we were the minority. So we were gawked at alot and alot of hellos. A lot of elderly people hunched over managing to climb the steps and praying at the individual Buddhas and offering money at each one. There was alot of money collected and it is used to help maintain the monasteries. There was alot of burning wicks which the people either put hunks of yak butter or had yak butter in liquid form in flasks. Once outside the monasteries the sun was very bright and it was warm around 6C, lovely. I even bought 4 bags of jelly beans off a vendor and they taste great. We had lunch at the monastery I was not hungry due to the breakfast and jelly beans Penny had a plate full of yak, veg and rice. I found the toilet it was interesting you had to watch where you were standing as there was a channel 12 inches apart and it was 3 foot deep passing through all the cubicles, you had to squat over the channel and drop anything which should not be in there and you were in trouble. Every minute couple of minutes a large volume of water passed through the channel. After lunch we departed to Sera Monastery a 30 minute drive away. The monastery was similar to Drepung but on a smaller scale. At 15:00 the monks had a debating session one standing and one sitting and alot of hand slapping, it would have been interesting to know what they were discussing. This goes on for 2 hours and there were hundreds of monks present.

We got back to our hotel and had to meet up at 18:30 for a meal with our tour party. So I had a siesta for an hour the altitude and walking around for 6 hours is taxing on the body. We walked for 20 minutes to this restaurant and had a lovely meal and got to know 4 of our travel mates as we dined. Chinese lady and her son who live in Australia, an American lady in her 40’s touring for a year and another American young lady who is teaching here in China. Strolled back to the hotel the streets were less congested. Got a new heater in our room and it is much warmer I am happy with that.

Xining to Lhasa by train

We boarded our train at 13:30 there was a mixture of Chinese and tourists in our carriage and we struck it again a 4 year old unruly kid in our compartment. I got all the bags put away for us and the Chinese mother and train departed at 14:02. An hour into the journey I needed the toilet and there is a European toilet at one end and a squat at the other. I went to the European toilet and some useless person had squatted on the toilet seat boot marks showing and done their business and then used a small bucket with water to clean themselves, well there was water up the wall all over the toilet and the floor was flooded. Again this useless person could have cleaned the toilet after they used it, but no. Bought back memories working in the Middle East where the Indians used the European toilets the same way. The doors were locked and we use to see if we could see any feet on the floor and there were not so we got a big bucket of water and threw it over the door and drenched them, which was greeted by a lot of yelling and told them to bugger off and use their designed toilets. This practice did not last for long.

The compartment next to us was a Belgium young lady and a American guy both school teachers here in China very interesting to talk too, they had 2 German sisters in their with them. Met a German guy living in the USA just retired and he and his lady were doing a world tour. The scenery was spectacular but unfortunately the train windows were dirty. We were climbing all the way from Xining to Lhasa it is the highest rail route in the world 5068 m or 16,627 feet high. One of the tunnels is 3,345 m long. Went to bed after 22:00 and got up at 07:00. It did not become daylight until 08:30 and the moon was full in show. The land is very dry and the farmers have stocks of yaks. Could see the farmers leading their stock from there houses out to the very dry grasses. Spotted one lady picking up yak pooh and it was stacked in around the house.

We arrived in Lhasa at 11:20 had to show our passports and visas to immigration who took them away and all us tourists followed her to another building. Five minutes later we had them back in my possession and we found our tour guide. Two buses for all the tourist off our train and taken to the hotel. It is sunny clear skies and 6C that is the warmest we have experienced since 30th November. We got to the hotel and checked in the teachers are in the room next to us. We met up with them afterwards and had lunch with them in a small Tibetan restaurant and it was one of the best meals we have had in China, except the sliced tomato they sprinkled it with sugar, does not taste good, but the rest was good. We walked through an out door market arcade to get to and back from the restaurant. There was blocks of yak butter a couple of guys cutting up a yak with an axe all interesting. Back to our room to chill and I went for a massage at 16:00 across from the hotel and the masseuses are blind. Had an hour long one which was good and cost £23. Good to get the oils massage into the skin as it is very dry and being at high altitude.

2 Days in Xining.

Have spent 2 days here in Xining. When we checked in they put us on the 8th floor and it was so hot over 25C so asked for a room change after 2 hours to a cooler room, relocated to the 3rd floor unfortunately not as big as the 8th floor room but Penny is happy with it, so that counts. Penny is still not well coughing a lot. I go walk abouts and we are just part of a big city. I get a few things and head back to the hotel.

Next day Penny is feeling a little better not coughing as much, she needs to get better for when we arrive up in Lhasa which is 3,656 m or 11,995 feet above sea level. Here in Xining it is 2,275 m or 7,464 feet. In the UK Ben Nevis is the highest point 1,345 m 4,409 feet. We will be going up to Base Camp Mt Everest Tibet side 5,150 m 16,900 feet. The 3 days here in Xining will help with acclimatising to the altitude much better than flying direct from sea level. It snowed during the night and it was -18 C a bit slippery when I went walk abouts later on. We decide to dine in the hotel which shows pictures of dishes better than we have seen or experienced. We both don’t rate the Chinese food so far. Penny had a steak which was not good, she enjoyed the salad part. I had some shrimps deep fried and a beef noodle dish was okay followed by a big salad great to have some greens again. We both ordered freshly squeezed mango juice which would have been nice but they boiled it and presented it to us hot. After dinner Penny had a massage in one of those chairs which she enjoyed.

Today Penny is feeling much better we both sleeping a lot which is good. There is no snow and we decide to find a park area close to the hotel. We found the Peoples Park what a beautiful location located in the city. The lake is frozen people riding various types of toys on it and another area they are doing speed skating. There were pagodas dotted around the park colourfully painted and we sat in one for over 30 minutes it was so relaxing. Setting like this would be ideal in other countries the Chinese I admit do this so well and there is no signs of vandalism. Stop in the shop next to the hotel and stock up on some comfort food for the train ride to Lhasa tomorrow. Back to our room Penny feeling really tired the outing in the park has done her well.We both have a 2 hour siesta feel good for it. Off to the restaurant later just have a salad they can’t fuck that up and have a sprite to drink cold I hope.

Our train departs after 14:00 tomorrow and takes 22 hours to Lhasa hopefully we will get some good photos on the way. I will try and buy train tickets for Feb from Chongqing to Guilin all our other tickets were purchased through travel agents.

Xian to Xining by train

Up before 07:00 Penny not feeling too great all showered packed up and we left the apartment after 08:00. Had issues getting a taxi as not many were coming past us, so we switched over the 6 lane road and had not much luck there either, so back to where we were originally and a taxi stopped for us. To Xian North Railway Station was a 40 minute ride this is where all the bullet trains depart from. Did all the formalities and boarded the train before 10:00 got our bags put away and sat in our spacious 2nd class seats. Penny curled up and feel asleep she is getting a lot of sleep which is good.

It was smoggy all the way up here to Xining, the train was climbing all the way and we maxed speed 246 KPH but a lot of the way under 200. A lot of mountains we saw and passed through about 6 large cities. Lot of agriculture land farmed which needs to be to feed the 1.3 billion people. We arrived after a 5 hour journey and found our way to the taxi queue. Half an hour later we are in a taxi to our hotel. We check in the bed is comfortable big room and chairs to sit in. Penny lays on the bed and I go for a walk, found some local food, fruit and more water. Penny said she was not hungry when I left but she ate well which is good. Again the Chinese hotels are very warm, radiators are on, 25C got the window open and the room door so we have a cooling breeze. Have done some more hand washing which is drying out on the radiators. Going to be another quiet night hopefully Penny will be feeling much better tomorrow.

Day 2 in Xian

Penny has decided to stay in bed as she has been coughing a lot and not feeling the best. I got her some more cough mixture and then I headed out on the bus 21 to Big Wild Goose Pagoda, Famen Temple and Shaanxi History Museum. I spent over 3 hours there wondering around taking in the sites. Then I found the bus 21 to take me back to where we are staying. Penny had been sleeping but not feeling the best. I went and got us a KFC take away for dinner which she enjoyed and she has gone back to sleep, she said she is feeling better than this morning. She needs a good sleep with out coughing too much. I have to repack for tomorrows train trip on the bullet train.

Day 1 in Xian

This is the warmest day we have experienced since leaving Spain on 30th November. Had to be about 5 C, so off come the orange and yellow jackets and on come the puffer jackets. Both dark in colour had to tell each other we are now dressed the same colour as nearly everyone else. At least I had by blur ruck sack and tall and Penny with her fading pink hair. We got on the bus # 8 to the train station 20 pence each crowded in with the locals. With a bit of walking around and asking various people we found the bus going out to the Terracotta Army which we were on for an hour and cost 80 pence each. The place we were staying were offering tours for 2 people for £75.00. We came to the stop off and we walked around some guys mausoleum and spotted 3 warriors in various sites, got speaking to an Aussie couple and they said we need to get a shuttle bus which takes us to the Terracotta site. So after 2 hours of walking around we were on the bus and arrived where there were lots of people. Bought our tickets £15 each hopped on an electric buggy and got driven up to the sites. There were more Chinese here than we saw at the Great Wall and Datong Grottoes. Went into 2 big covered areas and still could not find the Warriors we have found the sign posting is not the best here in China. After 2 buildings we were becoming really pissed off, asked a lady and she pointed to another building did not look much but hey presto we found the Terracotta Army. The whole site is still work in progress, areas still to be excavated, warriors being put together and areas where the warriors are in tack standing to attention. It was good to see them but my top 3 here in China so far is The Great Wall, Datong Grottoes and Summer Palace in Beijing. Walking back to the buses you have to walk for about 20 minutes and it is fully commercialised with food vendors and souvenir shops and everyone of them want s your business. We just wanted to get the hell out of the place and get on the bus.

Found the bus and back to Xian train station and hour plus journey spotted a couple of crashes today. People on bikes ride riding into the traffic across the traffic and also the cars doing the same I wonder how many people get killed on Chines roads as their driving is really bad. Got back to the station peak time traffic Penny is coughing a lot now I was coughing up to a day ago but getting over it. So we get a taxi back to where we are staying it is getting cooler and we need to warm up. We check into our apartment Penny has a shower and I get started on all the hand washing which needs to be done. All done and I have showered we head out to eat, playing safe Burger King which was average and Penny had KFC which she was happy with. Back to the apartment on the 21st floor great views a modern part of the city lots of shopping centers all the top European shop names are here.

Penny still coughing a lot during the night the cough mixture is helping we will go out later in the morning and do some more site seeing. We have to leave here at 08:00 tomorrow morning to go to another train station here in Xian a 4 hour journey to Xining. We spend 3 days there it is at altitude so we will acclimatise there before we train over night up to Lhasa in Tibet for our 8 Day Mt Everest Base Camp trip.

Day 2 Datong train to Xian

We had a train to catch to Xian at 16:40 an over night soft sleeper which arrives 09:05 in Xian. After breakfast spoke to the receptionist and we thought we would like to see the Hanging Temple. She said it would take 90 minutes each way by taxis and a couple of hours to see the place going to play it tight. So we decided to just take it easy as check out was at 14:00. Penny stayed in and I walked around the old city for a couple of hours. I was suprised I did not have any more shits after the concoction I ate last night chewy bits of beef, intestines, heart valves, gristle with spuds and some veg.

There was an issue with our tickets from Xian to Xining for tomorrow the train did not exist they had apparently cancelled it. So we got to the train station at 14:30 I found the ticket office and there was a counter for foreign travellers, the lady did not speak much English but changed those tickets and also issued our tickets from Xining to Lhasa again I had to show her our passports and our visas to Tibet. Got to the waiting room for our train and it was chock a block with people luckily we found a seat each and 30 minutes before departure they let us get on the train. Found our carriage and compartment Penny given the bottom bunk and I always take the top just the gentleman I am. A young Chinese girl was in there as well. The train departed and then a young Chinese soldier in uniform was shown into the compartment. I was hungry and still had no shits day 2 so I had some noodles and veg which filled me up. The Chinese trains are not as comfortable as the Russian trains. The hard sleeper we used once in Russia was more comfortable than soft sleeper we were in. I managed to sleep okay changing positions where the side of my body was aching. Got up after 07:00 and I needed the toilet but we were in a station and had been for a while and they lock the toilets. So I waited outside with my roll of toilet paper. Eventually the train departed and I was allowed in. They are not much better than UK train toilets, I sat on there and what a relief to have a normal bowel motion unfortunately the bottom of the toilet is open to the tracks below and I had a – 10C wind swirling around my balls and ring piece, but I walked away a happier man. Got off the train at 09:05 made our way to the taxi rank which was organised and policed. Got the bags into a taxi showed him the address we were staying in in Chinese. 30 minutes and £1.50 we were dropped off and we made our way to the 20th floor in this building. The lady could not speak English but she rang a guy and he spoke perfect English. Said check in in was at 14:00 we could drop our bags off there and we could do some sight seeing. Said we want to see the Terracotta Army, he said the lady will give us directions and he would see us when we came back later in the day.

Day 1 in Datong.

We had breakfast it was interesting so I had 2 toast and 2 boiled eggs. The receptionist who checked us in last night was on and she gave me details to catch 2 buses out to Yungang so we could see the Grottoes and the directions to get us back. The hotel is situated inside the ancient walled city of Datong and today it looked amazing but bloody cold – 14 C but clear skies, the first we have experienced since in China.

Got the number 3 and 38 buses out to Yungang and cost 30 pence each for both rides. The bus going out was a bone shaker but we got there. Found our way to the entrance and they asked for our passports which seemed strange and only had to pay for Penny to get in, nice of them to let me in for free. Had to pass through some buildings and 2 Buddhist Temples and then we came out to the Grottoes which were amazing built 1600 years ago and now this is an amazing UNESCO Site. The height of the Buddhists in the grottoes was around 16 m tall. Penny and I rate this highly up there with the Summer Palace and the Great Wall. After the grottoes we found the museum which was built into the ground and the roof showing. It was nice and warm in there as we warmed up and looked at the various artifacts. Coming back we passed around the Buddhist Temples which is sitting on piles on this frozen lake looked spectacular. Exiting the site we come across the souvenir sellers who were not that pushy but basically they were selling crap. Came across an old man with a camel and we took some photos with the camel and gave him 10 yuan he was happy.

Got the buses back to the area we are staying in and was walking through the Monastery area and with out realising we had bumped into our hotel. Time for siesta and do the blog. The video I have put up shows our hotel in the background.