There was a Xmas party down on the 2nd floor could hear the music here on the 4th floor the people must have enjoyed themselves and why not. We went down to breakfast at 10:00 and the place was busy a lot of the people from the party stayed for the night. It was a smorgasbord type breakfast various cold meats, cheese, rice pudding and semolina, boiled eggs, chips, corn on the cob and some other vegetables. Various types of Russian breads, some cereals dried fruit and yogurts.

Penny was going to dye her hair pink again as it was fading in colour. The room maid arrived to do the room so I went for a walk for an hour and took a bunch of photos. Was about – 10C reached an area where there was a breeze coming from down the valley it made it feel around – 15C. Apparently the maid took a while to do the room so Penny was colouring her hair when I got back. I decided to go for another walk.

The guy at reception I asked him a few questions about what to to do , most things are closed due to the winter. Can go on a snow mobile and go up the cable car, which we might do. He asked where I came from and I told him and he then welcomed me in Maori, (NZ native people language). I was taken back and I said you have spent some time there? He was at Palmerston North at college there for 4 years. He apparently loved it there but could not get residency. He was saying they have had not many Kiwis stay at this hotel.

There were bus loads of Chinese tourists coming into town spending a few hours here and must be heading back to Irkutsk. With tourists all around the world from all countries I wonder how many photos are taken in a 24 hour period? I googled it and they reckon over 14 trillion, 14,600,000,000,000.

Last night back in the Rolling Stones Hostel we met up with the Chinese orthopedic surgeon who we met on the South tour of Olkhon Island and another Chinese guy from the North Tour.

Got packed this morning left one bag behind at the hostel a 15 minute walk to the bus station. Found a mini bus going to Listvyanka they depart every 30 minutes. Our bag took one seat so had to pay for it as a passenger. The 90 minute trip cost about £8 for Penny I and the big bag. Could not see out of the windows as they were covered in frost on the inside. It was bloody cold at midday around – 17C. Penny said my moustache and beard had ice formed on it. I had a French couple who had been staying at the hostel sitting behind me, they were travelling to NZ in a weeks time for a year stay and were asking me questions about NZ, happy to oblige.

The bus stopped in Listvyanka only 1 street leading in and out of this town, water from the Lake Baikal was splashing onto the side walk and road which had turned to ice and icicles hanging off railings. From the bus stop had a 35 meter walk across the road to our hotel can’t miss it looks a bit art deco. We are booked in here for 4 days, time to chill and spend Xmas here. Got checked in and dropped the big bag off in our room and went to explore. The sun was shining and this is one quaint little town. I would say it is busier in the summer time. Found assorted accommodation places, some small restaurants, a market selling local products and dried and smoked fish. Tried to find some milk for Penny and the shop keepers are not helpful and bloody rude, we asked the waitress where we had a meal and she directed us to a mini supermarket, we managed to get a smile out of her.

A young woman working at the Rolling Stones Hostel had mentioned to us that the people here are not polite to tourists get the feeling they don’t like you here. She has been living on Olkhon Island for 8 months and told us some interesting facts about living on the island and the Buryats the indigenous people of this region. I asked what people did on the island, tourism is the main earner they take people on the tours as they don’t speak English you don’t get any history of the places you see. They live for the day and end of the day they love to drink. I mentioned the potential to improve tourism there and she told me they are not interested and outsiders can’t set up tourism there, mafia like.

Reflecting today, we were staying at my brothers place in La Punta Mexico this time last year. Winter time there and in the low 30’s C a 50 C difference in temperature.

The Siberian winds started up before midnight last night blowing over 50 kph. The spring loaded steel gate to our property made one hell of a racket during the night. Got up and packed for the trip back to Irkutsk, I waited outside the property at 09:00 with our bags and Penny stayed in the warm, still blowing a gale white caps on the lake and lots of dust from the road getting tossed in the air, great way to be grit blasted. It had to be around – 25C.

The bus came at 09:30 and had to pass the baggage up to the driver who was on the bus roof. We around the town and picked up 6 other people including the Kiwi couple we had met in the Rolling Stones Hostel. There was evidence of more ice formed on the lake edges due to the major drop in temperature. The driver was driving on either side of the dirt road depending what was in the best condition. We got to the ferry and off we got, bloody hell it was freezing. There was about 100m of ice which had formed on the mainland jetty side and this was not there 3 days previous when we were there. Back on the tar seal road the end of a bumpy ride. The bus driver was driving on both sides of the road and down the middle, why? who knows. There was evidence of more snow than 3 days ago and much colder, we lucked out with the weather whilst on the island.

Five hours later back at the Rolling Stones Hostel the staff here are fantastic and so friendly. We checked into our double room and Penny realised her woolly hat and possum gloves were missing last seen left on the bus with our ruck sacks sitting on the top of them. Some one must have liked them as we got off first to have lunch at the half way place. There was a night market Penny got a very warm woolen hat and in the supermarket got a pair of thick woolen gloves at least she will be warm as it is -26 C at present.

Off for something to eat now off in the morning to Listvyanka for 4 nights a 90-120 minute bus ride.

Picked up at 09:00 our guide yesterday introduced us to his friend who took us on the trip North, we picked up 4 Chinese people and off we went the tracks were in a bad condition big ruts going up and down hill. We were bounced around in the back of the van and the 2 girls behind me ended up on the floor a couple of times. The driver could have been a bit more considerate but he wanted to do this trip as quick as possible with the usual stops. There were times he could have stopped and let us take pictures of the wild horses and the cattle or even the condition of the tracks. Basically he was an arse hole and should not be taking tourists around the island.

There was forested areas unlike yesterday and warmer hence more snow than in town. Can see how the lake has started to ice over, hard to believe a lake this big will be iced over in February. Belgium would fit into the size of the lake and it is 1642 m deep and the purest water in the world. It is the oldest lake in the world 35 million years. 544 watercourses flow into Lake Baikal and only 1 river flows from it Angara. It has the worlds thickest sediment (silt) 8500 m and is 456 m above sea level. If everyone on the planet used 500 liters of water a day the available capacity of Lake Baikal would last for 40 years.

Staying at Khuzir and touring the island has been one of the highlights here in Russia and I would highly recommend to anyone to come a visit it.

We are staying in an interesting newly built wooden accommodation block. 2 levels 16 rooms. We have a double bed which is covered with 2 single duvets placed across the bed. The shower is a capsule cubicle and it rocks with your movements. Has an over head and a shower head off a hose. Bloody well scalded myself a really strange set up but got there eventually. The lady running the place does not speak any English.

Had porridge followed by a sausage, insipid egg and sliced cucumber and a blueberry cake for breakfast. Got talking to 8 Chinese travel agents about the tours of the island and one rang a friend and we were booked on the 10:00 Southern Island Tour which I thanked them very much.

Our driver picked us up and stopped to pick up another Chinese guy who was an orthopedic surgeon a really nice guy, spoke excellent English. He took us to various locations to admire the views and take photographs. The scenery was spectacular. Again the roads are just dirt tracks and they go off in various directions. One hill he went down he got us to get out of the van as he cautiously drove down it and we walked a kilometer or 2 to catch up to him.

We drove onto the ice twice and got out to experience walking on ice. What a great feeling so smooth and to see the cracks in the ice, bubbles of air fauna and vegetation frozen. The ice was about 1 meter thick. In February/March Lake Baikal will be frozen over. The scenery on the trip was amazing. We stopped for lunch and the driver cooked on an open fire, soup with bits of fish and potatoes had bread to go with it. It certainly warmed us up as it -10C and we were dining alfresco. The trip lasted 6 hours and cost £14 per person that was value for money and if one needed to see a chiropractor prior to the trip it would have been sorted out before the trip finished as we were bounced all over in the back of the van for the 6 hours.

We are doing the Northern part of the island tomorrow with the same driver. We are both looking forward to it.

Arrived in Irkutsk at 07:40 -11 C the station platform had crunching ice on it. Before we got outside the station guys yelling out taxi taxi. Got outside and they were charging 1500 roubles to the Rolling Stones Hostel. The 2^nd driver accepted 400 roubles. We arrived well early for check in but our room was not used a double private so we unloaded our gear and Penny was not feeling too well and crashed. I went for a walk around the city it was snowing. There were sign post of interest in English as well. There were a lot more Asian Russians present.

Went back to the hostel very clean and well run the Russian people running the place spoke excellent English. I got them to book us a bus for tomorrow to Olkhon Island and I looked on Booking.com for accommodation in the main town. Got 3 nights breakfast and evening meals included for £89. Bus will pick us up at 09:00 tomorrow. Penny was feeling better so we went for a walk and later on went out to a local food restaurant.

Met a kiwi couple waiting for our bus, who had arrived early they were travelling from London back to NZ heading off to Mongolia and Beijing the next day. Went to the bathroom full of young Chinese females one with a green mask on her face, water all over the place, 2 had mobile phones in use as they were washing themselves.

Went to bed at midnight with time zone changes last night and more later today need to get into a sleep routine. We arrive in Irkutsk at 08:40 tomorrow morning. For first class the mattress is bloody hard the mattress in 3^rd class was much more comfortable. Arrived at some station around 05:00 lots of noise and lights was there for over 30 minutes decided to get up.

From Moscow to Vladivostok the journey on the Express train takes 6 days and there is a 9-hour time zone difference from the west to the east of Russia. There has been more snow in the region we are passing through,now seeing snow drifts up to 2m high. The villages we passed through with a meter high of snow on the roofs. I wonder, the people who live there what do they do to live there through these harsh winters? How comfortable and warm is it too live in these houses, how do they keep themselves occupied, do they have TV, phones& internet. If they have fire places there certainly no shortage of firewood as there are trees everywhere. We in the western world just take so much for granted, the teenagers would not cope in these conditions and remoteness which I am witnessing. Do these local people know what is Brexit?

Got invited to the dining carriage for porridge and a meat sandwich. Going between carriages we got flurries of snow hitting us. The porridge had bits of dried fruit bits in it with a big nob of butter on it.Tasted bloody good and warming then they produced a bill of 900 roubles we thought it was free like last night’s meal.

We stopped for 22 minutes I got dressed and walked along the station platform all the smokers we out puffing merrily away some dressed in shorts slippers and t shirts it was not too cold – 8 C. A Russian army squad were getting a talk to by their commander. A couple had all their bags and boxes in very large holdalls dragging/ struggling with them along the ice on the platform. I walked past the numerous 3^rd class carriages thank goodness we are not stuck in one of them for 50 odd hours of travel. It is 16:30 and getting dark. The vastness of this country is truly mind boggling as we travel this remote route, I wonder how long it took to construct the Trans-Siberian rail line and how many men were involved and how many died?

Got a few hours of sleep the hotel got us a Uber taxi 200 roubles compared to the 600 I paid to get to the hotel. At the station had to go through security, bags on the conveyor belt and we through the scanner. I wonder why Britain do not do this prior to boarding trains? There were 10 trains due at Yekaterinburg station in the next 2 hours in both directions. The notification board is in Russian and English and our train was the Express Moscow to Vladivostok sounds more impressive than the one we took from St Petersburg. Because the trains are so long you don’t know where your carriage will stop at, ours was #3 and luckily it stopped where we were standing on the platform in – 16 C temperature. A bunch of people got off the carriage and Penny got on to find out compartment and drop off the ruck sacks and our bag of food. She came back to say the compartment was in a bloody mess and the lady attendant was cleaning it. Twenty minutes later we had access to our compartment. Again, much nicer than the train from St Petersburg to Perm which we travelled first class.

Could get our 2 big bags under our bunk with our bag of food. Penny bought a bottle of vodka from the supermarket was on special at £5 and she had to try a sip to launch this train journey and said it was the best she had ever tasted. I wonder what the £10 bottle tasted like? Then she fell asleep. Three hours later I had a rendition of the chainsaw symphony.

Day light at 08:30 and there is more snowing lying here looks so picturesque all the trees are shaded in white. We have a time zone change at 17:00 and another one tomorrow afternoon sure stuffs up the sleeping pattern.

A stewardess came into our compartment and asked when we would like dinner tonight and offered chicken and potatoes or stroganoff. Place gave us some chocolate and bottles of water and this is included in the ticket. So, after our last first-class experience, we bought food and water and we did not need it.

This train is the fastest we have been on and when one has to flush the loo the waste paper has to be placed in the waste bin. When you have to flush it goes onto the tracks and with the speed we are going at,the noise it makes is a very high-pitched screech.

We had a good sleep the bed only a double could have been bigger, we were tired the previous day was a long one. Started exploring the city around 11:00 it was colder than the day before – 9 C. Thermals are a must and we both have DLX jackets great for this climate. Our main plan was to go up the Vistosky Building 53 stories high with a viewing platform. But we could not see the building due to the mist and pollution could see the sun was appearing so would try later on in the afternoon. There is a lot of sculptors in the center and walking open malls. The people we met were friendly and helpful except the railway station porter.

Next to the our hotel was the modern theme barber shop I walked in and a guy spoke English and said did I have an appointment told him I did not but one of the barber guys said he would do my hair and trim the beard. Got the shampoo and rinse part and he trimmed my hair not short for this climate and then he trimmed the beard washed my hair again and dried it and the price was just over £10. 

Went to the Russian restaurant for more Borscht soup and it certainly warmed us up. Then made our way to the Vistosky Building the 2nd highest building in Russia apparently the highest is in Moscow. It was a bit hazy and you could see the pollution from the big chimneys. The views were good came down and walking back towards our hotel came across the Scotch Bar had to go in there. The barman was wearing a kilt and there was a lot of Scottish memorabilia on the walls with pictures of famous UK rock groups. I could have been back in Aberdeen or Edinburgh. Penny had a stout and loved it and we ate raw herring pickled onion and warm potatoes a Russian dish and mushroom wrapped in bacon in a dough batter and we dipped them in a curry mustard sauce , both dishes were lovely.

Found a supermarket looked like the equivalent of MS a bit pricey but we need provisions for our 50 hour rail trip departing at 03:30 tomorrow morning. From our last long train trip they did not have much of anything except Vodka. Penny got a bottle of Vodka so she will be happy.  Dropped the provision off in the hotel and back to our favourite Russian restaurant but unfortunately no Borscht soup so had salad and meat balls. Off to bed earlier than normal tonight to get a few hours of sleep once settled into our first class carriage we will have some more sleep. 

Arrived in Asia part of Russia it felt warmer than Perm. Walking around the city this afternoon they woman here present themselves better than the woman in Perm which is in Europe. We went to Church on the Blood where the Romanov’s (Tzar and his family) were murdered in 1918. The church was built on this location in 1977. Then we went to the church next door and ushered/ordered around by a Russian lady who spoke a little English it was comical. Walked on the frozen pond and strolled through the center of town. Found a Russian restaurant we had the borscht soup lovely, couple of salads and a big pastry it come to £3.70 value for money. Then went to a shop bought caramel pop corn, Mo-chi 3 of them and a big coffee £8.